The holiday island that turned Russian

A mysterious Russian cargo ship limped into the Cypriot port of Limassol, this month, forced to seek shelter from a violent storm.

Hidden on board the MS Chariot were four containers packed with 60 tonnes of ammunition for AK-47s and for rocket launchers. The shipment had come from Moscow's state arms company, Rosoboronexport; its shadowy purchaser was none other than the Syrian government.

Cyprus, an EU member since 2004, was supposed to seize the cargo. The weapons flagrantly breached the EU's strict embargo on military supplies to the Syrian regime, which since last year has been violently engaged in shooting and killing its own citizens and anti-regime protesters.

Instead, Cypriot officials allowed the ship to leave after receiving vague assurances it would alter its route. The captain refuelled, left and then set a brisk course for the Syrian port of Tartus, where he delivered his dubious cargo.

Critics say the murky episode is further evidence of Cyprus's unwillingness to displease – and "embarrassing subservience" to – Moscow. Cyprus's reluctance to offend Vladimir Putin is understandable. The Kremlin has pledged – but not yet handed over – a €2.5bn loan to bail out Cyprus's economy. Russia has also been a staunch supporter of Cyprus in the UN security council, and an opponent of the unrecognised Ankara-backed Turkish Cypriot "state" in the divided island's north.

So many Russians now live in Limassol, an attractive port with an old city and crusader castle, that the resort has been dubbed "Limassolgrad". There is a Russian-language newspaper, two Russian schools and a radio station. On Sundays Russians flock to Debenhams; the resort's tourist strip features stores selling fur coats, kefir – a sour Russian yoghurt drink, and Baltika, Russia's popular beer.